Sunday, October 26, 2008

Mendoza, Argentina

Mendoza, Argentina is one of the mainstays on the travel itinerary for a student studying in Santiago. It lies about 3 hours beyond the border of Chile and Argentina, almost directly west of Santiago, in the wine country of Argentina. I'd heard a lot of mixed reports about it, so my friends and I decided to investigate for a weekend.

The best way--make that the cheapest way--to get to Mendoza is a brutal bus ride over through the Andes mountains with hairpin turns and sheer cliffs to enjoy on the 6 to 10 hour ride (depending on how long you're delayed in customs). We, being Pat, Nate, John, Monica, Emily, and myself, decided to figure out our transportation separately. It resulted in varying bus companies and times, but an interesting travel experience for all. I left around 10:30 pm on Thursday night, and ended up sitting next to a very friendly Australian named Kent. We chatted for awhile--he and his girlfriend were on a 2 month tour of South and Central America--before we attempted to sleep. Easier said than done, to be sure. We arrived at Customs at around 1:30 am . . . 4 hours later, after a long, freezing wait in line, we continued into Argentina.

I arrived in Mendoza around 8:30 am and headed for our hostel--our meeting place once everyone arrived. Nate and Monica--who had chosen a rather sketchy-looking but cheaper mini-bus company--were passed out on the couches already. We talked about our respective experiences crossing the border as our other friends checked-in. Lethargically, we made plans for the day.

We began by doing a simple exploration of the city. It holds about 1 million people, but you wouldn't really know it if not for the expansive bus system. All of the streets are lined with trees whose branches hang over the roads, seemingly creating a system of tunnels through the city. It creates a beautiful, although misleading sensation that you're in a small Argentinean town. Plaza Independencia is the city center with its pair of impressive fountains, and it is surrounded by 4 smaller plazas. Finally, the city gives way to an expansive public park with a man-made lake, public athletic courts, and a maze of roads that connect various fountains and statues throughout the park. We explored the park for a few hours until Pat and John decided to head off for a canopy tour in a canyon nearby. Our energy level definitely couldn't be sustained for the rest of the day, so we found some lunch and headed back to the hostel for a nap.



Four hours later we woke up, found some dinner, and proceeded to drink the night away with the Europeans that were staying in the hostel as well. I slept on a bunk bed in a musty-smelling basement room, but for $10 per night, it served its purpose.




We woke up around 10 to be sure we could find our way to a bike rental agency that provides bikes, water, and a map of the wine country. Our plan was to have a leisurely bike ride through the Argentinean wine country and stop on occasion to expand our knowledge of fine wine. However, our plan was delayed due to the mistake of our taxi drivers who dropped us off not only at the wrong plaza, but in the wrong town too. I don't know how it happened, but after an hour of wandering and asking directions, we were on a bus for the right plaza in the right town.

We rented bikes from one of the most interesting Argentineans I have met--a kind, older man with a big smile and a strong love for wine named Mr. Hugo. He sent us on our way with a map and a list of artisan wine cellars. Our first stop was a factory vineyard, but they were on a break for lunch. We decided not to wait and continued on our way. We ended up at a vineyard about 10 kilometers south called Familia di Tommaso. I risk a cliche by saying it was charming, but it really was. It remains family-owned, has its headquarters in a federally protected historic building, and offers some fantastic wines. We had a pleasant lunch overlooking the vineyards, followed by a tasting and tour. Needless to say, we were hesitant to leave.

However, the time came. We mounted our bikes to head off to our next bodega (wine cellar), but when I tried to pedal, I realized that my back tire wouldn't move. My trusty bike had nearly separated itself from the back tire. The tire was barely attached to the frame, but it remained attached at such an angle that caused the tire to be jammed against the frame. Basically, it was not going anywhere unless it was carried. Our tour guide at the winery offered to call our rental company and have a bike dropped off at our next destination 4 or 5 kilometers away. What followed was a hilarious, although painful, experimentation process that involved me balancing in different ways on the back of Nate's bike. Our guide offered advice at times, but mostly, she just laughed. Eventually, I just volunteered to jog alongside my friends as we traveled to the next vineyard.

When we arrived, we shared a bottle of Torrontes--Argentina's version of white wine. It wasn't great, but Mr. Hugo arrived to save the day and give me a new bike. We left soon after and in more-or-less of a straight line (we had drank a fair amount of wine by this point), we headed to a chocolate and liquor manufacturer. We sampled some liquors and some fantastic chocolate before we headed back to Mr. Hugo's headquarters.


Once we arrived, he invited us to take a seat and placed some glasses and a bottle of wine in front of us. We happily helped ourselves. 5 bottles later, it was getting a bit late in the day. Nate and I looked at each other, and he asked me, "Are you feeling drunk?" Honestly, I answered, ...No. "Me either" he said. He leaned back and looked into Mr. Hugo's kitchen. He smiled and told us that Mr. Hugo took a half-full bottle of wine, put a funnel in it, and filled the rest up with water. Although Mr. Hugo lost a bit of credibility with that move, it certainly adds to his odd character. As we left, he thanked us and wished us luck in our travels and studies before waving us goodbye as we got on the bus.

We got back and I immediately had to take off running for the bus station. My bus left at 10:50 and I got there 4 minutes before. I settled down for another long ride through the Andes, but the wine, even if it was watered-down, made my return trip a lot more enjoyable.

Chao.

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